India: Experiencing NASSCOM 2004

A ball by ball account of Pakistan's first tech delegation visit to Mumbai and Bangalore

12/05/2004

The indians are coming

As promised, I'm drafting the following lines as the Indians are probably finalising their shopping lists.

Big names, good names, men and women, are expected to set foot on the Pakistani soil in search of avenues for collaboration and sign on an MoU.

The trip will stretch over 4 days Karachi-Islamabad-Lahore and back to Mumbai. A day and night in each place, leaving on the morning of the fourth. Talk about short trip.

Things are changing on a personal front so won't be tagging along with the Indians everywhere [as I should] but hope to get the best out on this blog.

Use these keywords "indian pakistan tech delegation" in Google News to see similar news items about the visit.

3/13/2004

Dinner@Zouk

No NASSCOM hasn't been in town. But the delegation--or 8 of us from the delegation--met for dinner at Cafe Zouk in Karachi.

This was the second meeting for the delegation since our return from India. The first round of socialising was conducted in Lahore where Jehan Ara, Nadeem Malik, Sadia Khan and Lutfullah Khan, alongwith Sultan [the delegate who could not make it] had what I heard was a good time at The Ugly Duckling, the Gymkhana and a formal PASHA meeting.

Dinner last night was thrown by Nadeem for Owais Zaidi, Sultan, Allauddin Sahib, Shahida Saleem, Jehan Ara and a-very-late Asad who was left grappling with a few Buffalo Wings.

All thoughts and concerns about work were barred from the table [since there was a committee meeting planned for today] and the ensuing conversation focused on a 'news announcement' [scary], Owais and Shahida threatening me with dire consequences for lack of adequate coverage in Spider, and complicated developments on the PASHA forum. Owais insisted that I have developed hate for him since the Indian visit while Shahida pointed our a grave typo [My company is Catco International] in the final write-up. The conversation easily fluctuated between how PASHA should "chill out" in various ways conducive to the future of IT to contents related to the "announcement". Sultan, managing a very cheese-filled course, resorted to meditating in a corner [praying for salvation for his dining colleagues].

Missing from dinner: Anwer and Navaid of Kontact. Anwer had thrown a private party according to news reports reaching my ears. Reports suggest he had installed invisible PASHA blockers around his property to prevent his old friends from gate-crashing. We missed you too Anwer!

In a seperate development, the FPPCI-IT committee was successfully concluded at iWays, Karachi. Attendees identified dates for several key verticals to be conducted this year. Potential sponsors and networks were listed and a strategy to follow up the first event coming up in April were drawn up.

2/09/2004

@Home

Since our return from Bangalore, the delegation all but dispersed. Without keeping tabs, most of us concentrated on meeting friends in town, window-shopping around Kolaba and Bandra. With only one opportunity for a night out, the delegation divided into two for their Sat evening entertainment.

The group I was part of made a stop at Choppatti beach where even panwallas sported a dotcom address and then on to Pheonix Mills. Some of us found our way to Koyla, a roof-top sheesha joint that offers a nice view of the Mumbai dockyard/skyline [as opposed to the necklace we had gotten used to from the Oberoi].

Sunday evening was a confusion between who’s hanging out, who isn’t. Safe to say, my energies at keeping track were spent.

An early morning start saw Jehan, Shahida and myself transported at the ISO 9001 certified airport. Some disgusting sandwiches and a cup of coffee later, we faced a crisis; A slight snag in our departure plans saw one delegate get left behind. With team-effort and frantic phone calls to Karachi and New Delhi, it was apparent the delegate would only be able to make it back the next day. The rest of us marched through immigration and on to Karachi. Where did the week go, we are left thinking.

A PASHA event is scheduled for Thursday to announce the delegation’s progress in Mumbai.

This blog will next open when NASSCOM is in town.

2/07/2004

Bangalore lore

Not even a twister is good enough a word to describe our whirlwind tour.

At 7: 30, outside the airport, Gaurav K. Punjabi, NASSCOM’s business development exec and our guide in Bangalore, had been waiting for us. He had reached an hour earlier and was anxious to get us on the bus [again!].

After a smoke-stop, the bus was zig-zagging its way to the main city.

Karnataka’s capital Bangalore:
Population: Over 6 million.
Area: 2190 sq km, near the Southern tip of India.
Traffic: Not insane.
Roads: Under construction, apparently.
First looks: Intel, sleek office, Microsoft, huge building, Diamond District, wow! cluster of office blocks.
Sleek or what?: Actually, no. Bangalore is just another city, with more than its share of dotcom offices spread all over the city.
Connectivity: Massive move to broadband [995 per month] the city/install fiber optics underway.

See: Department of IT and BioTech, Govt of Karnataka
See: Bangalore Net

Stopped at a restaurant. Chai garam eases our nerves. And we’re off to DigitalGlobalsoft; chairman NASSCOM Som Mittal’s company.

DigitalGlobalsoft is about to be gobbled up by Hewlitt Packard and senior business exec Vishnu M. takes us through the company’s exponential growth based on a ‘partner-strategy’. The company’s market turnover stood at a healthy US$542m in December 2003. Owais and Asad showed a keen interest in learning about its HR practices. A tour of the call center area and a short walkabout around the premises reveals Globalsoft is anything beyond our imagination: the company is spread over acres and acres of tastefully done land. Lutfuallah Khan and I end up talking about our first impressions. We are astounded. Lutfullah Sahib wonders how long it will take Pakistan to build a company of this magnitude. We quietly put the estimate down to decades.

Next stop WIPRO.

An argument has broken between Owais, Asad, Sadia and myself. The theme is ‘gender’ relations and perceptions within the delegation. After a week’s worth of pitiful interaction, Asad and Owais were on our case for putting up what I can safely call ‘an attitude’. In between pot shots and sleep-deprived existences, the dynamic duo questions why some ‘folks’ within the delegation are standoffish. The argument continues well within the WIPRO premises and the hush at the entrance lobby finally lulls us.

WIPRO’s premises [one of 9] is another example of unmatched elegance and huge expanse. We’re met by three senior executives from the company’s marketing arm and ushered into their presentation room. After a brief presentation, Nadeem, Asad and Owais once again rallied off questions about the company’s attrition rate, HR policies and their revenue from exports to the US [“its tougher to sell to people of South Asian origin in the US”]. Clearly, how companies make the big leap from a small startup to a global dotcom is the story the Pakistani delegates wish to hear over and over. For WIPRO, a vegetable oil manufacturer, it has been a roaring success.

At WIPRO, journalists from United News of India put Nadeem and Owais on hold for a 20-minute session.

One group snap later, we are ready to be dazzled by InfoSys, a few blocks away. Turns out the drive is all of 40 minutes, the minimum time we traveled to get anywhere in Bangalore.

InfoSys literally knocks the wind out of my lungs. The difference between a block of red apartments where a group of seven software engineers started their empire compared to the vast, chic magnitude of InfoSys today is a sight for sore eyes. This sight draws delegates and visitors from afar, we are number 5 on a list of 14 for Feb 6th. The buzz on this campus is unbelievable [because it feels like one!] – phone booths, traffic signs, golf carts for a quick round, and, last but not the least, a merchandise shop [no time for Pakistanis alas].

Binod H.R., Vice President Commercial, sits downs for a lavish lunch with the PASHA delegates. He talks about InfoSys’ success and has a few questions of his own about the size of Pakistan’s tech industry. He continues to show off a conference hall that is hi-tech enough to put the UN’s New York headquarters to shame [“we have to keep this up if we are going to entertain visitors like Bill Gates”].

Lunch over, we are off to our second last destination: vMoksha in the Diamond District. It was nearly 4 and fatigue had started to hit the best of us. VMoksha’s CEO Pawan Kumar is one of many success stories out of India. His presentation is a typical marketing run down but his interactive session with the delegates gives every one a start: he talks about niches Pakistani start-ups can tap into [diet Coke rules!]. I focus on snaps and hope the delegates remember where Pawan is pointing.

Out of the Diamond District, the delegation is about to split up again. Sadia and Lutfullah Khan have finally solved their booking problems and managed seats for New Delhi. The two are headed for IndiaSoft [and the Taj Mahal]. Asad cannot wait for his Bangalore buddy to show up and take him away from the bus-tour.

Gul M. Iqbal, a former IBM-India exec, spotted us at vMoksha. He insists the members must accompany him for tea. At Gul’s place, Asad is off.

Three down, three to go.

On the way to Skanda Software, Nadeem, Owais and I get to listen to Gul’s Bangalore story. Around us, the construction is continuing at breakneck speed through the night to lay down fibers and dig up roads. The city’s story has yet to see a ‘glorious’ end. Gul talks about firms researching bio-tech and chip manufacturing. Bangalore is R&D.

Skanda Software turns out to be a typical Pakistani software house; comprising all of 7 working staff. Expecting a delegation of 20, director Dawood Khan is surprised to see 4 people get off the bus. Dinner is far from my mind and I darted glances at Owais and Nadeem: “Make this a quick one”. And we do.

Nearing 9pm and we are off to the airport.

Our hosts are dead tired and so are we. Asad, all prepped up from his evening out, joins us near the boarding desk. The flight is short and the subsequent Indica taxi ride even shorter [20 mins to the Oberoi]. As Nadeem, Owais and Asad recover from the speedometer shock, I make a beeline for the lift to get to bed. 1am. Peace at last!

2/06/2004

On the way--scratchpad

The phone buzzed around 3:45 am. Sadia wanted to know if I was coming down given Jehan Ara was ill and in no fit shape to travel. In 10 minutes, I was at the main entrance of the Oberoi. Spotted: Sadia and Asad exchanging friendly fire, Owais bag-less, Nadeem playing with his handheld and Lutfullah Khan ready to go.

Having done a 24 hour wake-a-thon, coupled with an unnecessary amount of nervous energy spent over Bangalore’s details, I was aloof. The thought of another ‘bus’ trip to the airport was squeamish – having spent a good deal commuting the same route since day one in India. None of the other delegates showed signs of fatigue and we were soon on the bus, on the move.

Mumbai’s domestic airport was no sight for sore eyes, like its international airport. If you can remember what Islamabad airport was 10 years from this date, you can picture the low-tech look of Mumbai’s airports. Queues and documentation take forever, awkward pillars rise from the ground in the middle of the walkway (you could be forgiven for walking right into them) and passengers are swarming around. Foreigners, hipsters, families and couples abound to exotic places like Goa or Bangalore (!). Such is the hustle bustle on a domestic airport at 4 am. Unlike Karachi, Dubai or Heathrow, you are spared a long walk to get anywhere.

Our seats were booked on Jet Airways, one of four private domestic operators for a whopping US$272/- (at least to a journalist’s ears). At the foot of a huge gate, we hopped on a shuttle to get on a Jet plane. Comfortable seats, stewards on their toes (blankets and pillows, presto!), and a heavy head compelled me to forget about keeping a pulse of the delegation. Not to be. Despite dozing for 10 minutes, Owais’ infectious energy (non-stop work talk) and Asad’s quips directed at Sadia seated next to me left room for a numb flight. The smell of breakfast was nauseating but when Sadia announced that there would be none waiting in Bangalore, every one munched away. I had a sad looking bun. My hands were no longer communicating with my brain, food was out.

For a one hour fifteen minute flight, this has been an awfully long description.

2/05/2004

Day 4

Starting last year, NASSCOM hold a CEO fashion show where the tech giants of India get a chance to sashy down the catwalk alongside gorgoeous supermodels [or their wives] -- kind of like livin the dream for some of them. This year, some one had the brilliant idea to combine tech plus fashion with Indian religious mythology. The result proved quite entertaining for the first half of the show with Som Mittal dressing up as Gandhi and Harsh Mehta as a guru. Positively knackered, we all returned to the hotel to catch some shut eye before our breakfast meet with the Canadian deputy high commissioner and some local businessmen.

Again, the breakfast saw Owais Zaidi ready to strike a deal [short of] with one of the local reps of CGI. Shop talk plus an invitation to Reliance gave us a good start at the Canadian breakfast. The walk to and fro to the continental gave every one's brain a refreshing change.

As always, three of us ended up talking about the state of the IT industry well past midnight. While there has been considerable networking with other delegates at the Forum, I have suggested to Jehan that we, as a group, need a session to recap everything, the developments here, how to follow this up and what PASHA can gain from this. As a group, every one has had a chance to get to know the entire delegation and its time we all sat down for a discussion. Guess who the moderator will be?

Jehan's caught a bad bug last nite and is out of action until the afternoon when we have a meeting with NASSCOM [finally]. I've just caught Kiran Karnik and the head of the malaysian delegation signing up MoUs. The Malaysians seem very focused and they are throwing a networking coctail party later in the evening right before the Gala. They have handed atleast 10 cards to each delegate in the conference.

Perhaps Kiran and Jehan can sign similar agreements and conduct press conferences together in the future?

Ive personally found NASSCOM very welcoming. However there has been very little chance of interaction with them directly and between our delegation. Perhaps this is expected since NASSCOM is looking after the entire conference and busy promoting the advantages of outsourcing to a keen audience. This afternoon would be a good indicator of where things go from here between the two trade bodies.

Bangalore awaits us tomorrow. We have a mad 6:30 am flight, which means heading for the airport at 4 or 5am. We are due back tomorrow night and hell no entertainment since we are meeting 3-5 companies there. No legendary pubs and no sightseeing since every one agreed to sacrifice that opportunity at the cost of visiting Reliance in Mumbai on Saturday.

Its 1. Need to see if I can grab lunch or harass some one for comments.

Day 4--second half

I wonder how one can crack passwords at the Oberoi? My Centrino's woken up from its slumber and detected a hotspot nearby. But my Explorer wont budge until I put in a Guest password. Darn security. So this and future entries are likely to be offline since I do not forsee walking out to Link Road [25 minutes] for the comfort of my favorite cybercafe. Plus my concious won't allow me to pay Rs.200 for an hour to the great Oberoi. Uh..uh.

As it happens there was no lunch. I wandered upstairs and ran into Jehan and Nadeem, with Priya from Rediff.net. As soon as I saw Priya give an alert look in my directions, I saw the questions coming. "Zunaira, I want your point of view on what its like for working women in Pakistan as a journalist". I ducked, slid off the table, put on my best diplomatic expression [which isnt that good] and said "You have to be street smart.." and rambled for half a second before cleverly passing the buck in Jehan's direction. Early on, I had realised I was the loudspeaker in this 'careful' delegation. When in doubt, step out. Not sure how much and what I say would be misquoted in India [paranoia] so I've kept my wisdom to myself. I'll put it in a PDF file one day and email it to her [mental note].

The interview wound up, we woke up to the fact that we still had no tickets. Jehan was ill. Nadeem doesnt look fit for running [sorry Nadeem] so I darted back to the basement. It took us an hour to finalise who was going. There would be 11 of us, Anwer and Navaid of Kontact are due back in Karachi tomorrow. And I can't tag our friend from Millennium Software. On an impulse, a unanimous decision was reached to return by the 10:30 flight tomorrow night. Sheesh. No one in this delegation wants to breath.

I finally spotted Rita Terdiman, VP Gartner Group. I had requested NASSCOM to pin her down for a brief sitting for Spider but as with most conferences, the PR agencies are too busy shuffling speakers from sessions to hotel rooms and I'm left looking up every American woman at the conference, which btw, aren't too many [phew!]. Rita was sitting next to a grinning Indian when I pounced on her [literally]. Flashed a copy of Spider, told her we HAD to meet and waited for her to do another Diana Farrell. She gawked at the magazine in her hands and asked me whether this was an... "an Internet magazine from Paakistaan? How interesting.. look young lady, journalists are grabbing me wherever I go. And I have no idea what my timetable is like...so why don't you see if I'm around at 7 in the lobby". Apparently Rita was skipping the Grand Gala Dinner. Hmm. Quick decision, miss the final social event of the conference and wait for my chat? I chose chat.

I turned around and came face to face with Anwer and Navaid scooping up cups of cold coffee. Perrfect! The two were bidding us bye bye and I wanted to know what they were reflecting on. Anwer looked particularly red in the face but Navaid as usual was a-okay. Without giving them a chance to say no, I led the way to the Media Speaker's room and got them talking. Anwer and Navaid were more or less in agreement. The level of sophistication they had witnessed at NASSCOM, the event, the networking and their interactions with other delegates here has been by far world class. Anwer feels there is considerable dependence from the private sector on the government to move things forward and this he hasnt seen in India. Both these gentlemen are looking forward to starting their call center operation soon.

Had just about given up on the Sun CTO interview when I noticed the confused PR guy looking in my direction. Still no lunch, I asked him if Matt Thomas was good and ready. Relieved he directed me to the Business Center. Had a superb session with Matt and his Indian counterpart who happily showed of the new Linux-based Java desktop...first looks: super cool! The interface got me...you can drag, drop, pull windows like child's play...awesome! I WANT THIS NOW. Get techies to start talking about the fineries and they do it splendidly. I don't know where the hour went. And I'm not a techie. Matt has the distinction of having been to Pakistan on a 'flying' visit [lahore]. I can't believe I was sitting there also trying to sell Pakistan but that's exactly what I have been doing the past 3 days. Perceptions about security and the level of IT penetration at home are completely warped. Maybe Matt will find himself coming to karachi in another 5 years, who knows. Have asked for a copy of the CD which is being distributed with magazines all over India, other than being picked up by a few states for their e-governance programs.

Instead of checking in to any of the sessions, I once again docked at the Media Center to see who's addressing who. Jehan walked in followed by Shahida, Naeem somehow fitting in the picture too [which hasn't been] and Owais accompanied by Lutfullah Sahib, Navaid and Anwer. NASSCOM was finally meeting the Pakistani delegation at 4. With 1o minutes to go, we all sat around in a circle and I sent a holler Naeem Ghauri's way. Only yesterday, the gentleman had told me his company was looking for partners in India. Overnight, this partnership according to FT and BBC had transpired into full fledged ownership. That Naeem had chosen to boast of his ambitions to the gora press irked me. I didnt have to waste 15 minutes of my life asking why he wanted to be on this trip if he was going to play poker with me on info. So before the delegation knew what was happening, Naeem and I were in the middle of a heated argument. Who said what with what effect? Indeed. We closed the argument on a friendly enough note. As far as I'm concerned: never take a pakistani businessman on his word. Still not sure whether his deal has come through in aquiring an Indian firm or is it mere steam to generate interest in the NetSol stock.

Kiran Karnik, Som Mittal and [?] Chairman Mastek finally came across at 4. It was actually quite surreal. While I balanced my recorder from one person to the other in the circle, it struck me for the first time that these were businessmen, no pakistanis and no indians. They were talking interest, in cooperating, collaborating -- jargon one expects to hear on a first meeting. While there was no paper signing [mere exchange of good will and gifts], and no confirmation when NASSCOM might visit Pakistan, certainly the level of interest between both parties is equal. Group snaps plus individual snaps later, NASSCOM was heading for a closing. I got a pat on the back from Kiran [ahem, ahem!] for all the soldiering around I did with the delegation.

The closing was a typical press conference. The Indians recounted why the backlash against outsourcing would not hurt their interests yet they were addressing the problem [Hill & Knowlton outtaboys!].

The Malaysian networking event was cute. I dont know what happened there because I was too busy stuffing myself with the fried stuff floating around. Seeing a potential eater [no, make it BIG TIME eater], the entire squadron of bored waiters rushed at me with their loaded delicacies. I barely exchanged hello with dear Vickram Crishna sitting with Jehan and Shahida before grinning at each waiter, nodding my appreciation at each offering and munching away. I dont think I care to recall exactly what I ate within the span of 20 minutes but given it was India, it couldnt be anything with scales, which is fine by me. The Malaysians also offered free drinks which I couldn't use.

Back in the room, Shahida and Sadia were deliberating group chemistry. I checked energizers and made my way to the lobby. Rita showed up at 7:15. Thank God I chose chat. She asked me if I was sure I wasnt going to sell anything to her, I gave her a sardonic look and said not today. I only wanted to tag her on a couple of pointers: a) why in the age of information saturation, should any one believe any source that is mapping countries as hot beds be it Gartner or some unknown researcher, b) Gartner's presence in India and c) the next big tech havens. An interesting conversation ensued over credibility in the information age and before I could stop myself, I was talking about the CNN effect, framing and old school media theory. Rita was curious to see an 'independent, liberal young woman' still willing to live in Pakistan and had plenty of questions about the political climate at home, Osama and perceptions about America abroad.

At 8:30, me, Shahida and Sadia sneaked out to Jazz by the Bay - a useless scam of a karaoke place which charges a Rs.150 cover price, serves average food and the most horrendous school band as a combo. We heard our most favorite tracks slit from cover to cover in the most merciless, gut-squelching way [except when somebody had the sense to put in a Tears for Fears CD] until we literally stumbled out in the cold, night Mumbai air. Aaah. The ladies thought ice cream and a ride on the ronga by the beach should put a good end to the conference and for Rs.50, it wasnt too bad. There was some commotion by the beach -- a film shoot. We stood around for a sec before heading back to the Oberoi.

Crisis at midnight: Jehan is definitely ill and so is Lutfullah Sahib. We need to transfer tickets and cancel some. Shahida has decided she would rather stay back to meet a potential client. In the middle of this, I'm wondering how many will find their way to Bangalore tomorrow morning. We've made frantic calls and discovered a wandering travel agent who has promised to to do the needful ticket changes.

Its nearly 3:15. Need to stay up until 4 so I dont miss the taxi ride to the airport. I'll be at the door. If there's enough people going, I'm tagging along. Hate Shahida for sleeping in her bed, soundly.











2/04/2004

Day 3

The morning caught the entire delegation in the face starting from breakfast. Networking is the name of the game and from Jehan Ara to her troupe, every one is busy balancing their own contact cards in one hand and the same of their newly discovered friends in the other.

My day started with a very satisfying interview of Kiran Karnik, President NASSCOM in the lobby [we hijacked the sofas since there is no place anywhere]. Not only does Kiran know what he is talking about, he knows what I want to hear. Which has its pros and cons. Watch out for the interview in the March issue.

Several sessions are taking place simultaneously. I caught the tail end of the Open Source session where Sun CTO was publicizing his newest desktop OS for linux fans. His interview is up tomorrow afternoon.

Diana Farrell, Director Mckinsey Global was one of many pro-outsourcing Americans to hold a session too. She offered several interesting figures advocating the benefits of outsourcing for both the US and India. Unfortunately, she wasnt eager to meet me for an interivew [we'll see how it goes]. Your loss, Di.

I've officially distributed my first 10 copies of Spider and very proud of it. Now 30 more to go before I'm several kilos lighter [and I'm being choosy about them]. The reaction is, for instance from Matt Thoman CTO Sun, "An Internet Mag from Pakistan??? well, well, well, very interesting...". As if. Obviously, surfing the WWW is a hobby for Americans and Indians alone ;~) The PR companies are just as wide-eyed I assure you.

The highlight of the day was my sitting with Prasanto Roy and not because he is a very respectable journo+technophile in India, but he gave me the lowdown on the Indian success like no one else has been able to [Thank you Prasanto!]. Not only was I completely caught up in absorbing the amount of facts coming out of him, I was also very impressed with the way CYBERMEDIA, the company he is a part of, is active on technology issues in India. This is what SPIDER should aim for. I am very excited about connecting him with Jehan Ara and Shahida Saleem who are looking for people like him to talk about India's tremendous growth in creating a partnership between the public-private sector which is working, very well.

I spotted only one delegate lounging in the lobby which is not too bad for a delegation of 15. Jehan is busy with a series of interviews today while sessions on BPO and offshoring have been a hit with the Pakistani delegation so far.

Will any of this bring any business to Pakistan? Too big a question to put forth to a delegation that is making its first trip to India and letting companies know here that we exist.

So from a Wi-Fi basement to a standard cybercafe on V.N.Road, Nariman, I'm still feeling very connected to life.

Took a long, hot stroll from Nariman Point halfway round the necklace and came across a booth that said "Free Access: to email, egov, ebanking...etc" sponsored compliments of the state. A bored looking policewalla gave us the directions to this cybercafe as he watched young sweethearts share a moment on the pavement. Me and Said from AutoSoft couldnt help feel great about life [cats, dogs, animals...on the streets] and people equally get respect for whatever they want to do.

The cybercafe where I'm at has capacity for 8-9 people, its windows shaded [somethings are the same] and a fair mix of young people [definitely I'm the oldest] clad in jeans and cotton shirt logged on to MSN or trying to sign-in. No one is sneaking past my shoulder to see what I;m up to or darting dirty looks in my direction, clearly they are occupied with matters of their own.

Ah...Mumbai. This could have been Karachi.

The internet cafe in the basement of Oberoi is Wi-Fi thanks to Cisco. Had NASSCOM tipped us about the number of facilities on offer, I would have been able to keep up with this blog starting Feb 2, and not Feb 4, day one of NASSCOM.

Quickly:
On the flight, we finally landed with 15 delegates as opposed to 23. Some excused for Eid prayers [how can we miss it?], some wanted to come via an 8 hour flight via Dubai [okay, so shopping is great there, now get over it], and some just plain didnt turn up at the airport. To the president of PASHA, Jehan Ara, who has worked on this trip with immense grit, this was unfair.

Landed safely in Mumbai. Oberoi is exactly as it was in Colombo, classy, luxurious and buzzing with activity because of the on-going conference. Lovely water lilies all over the place. The two-hour ride from the airport to the 'necklace' where Oberoi is - far from it.

The city is as I heard, a mass of shanty towns, high rises, smart indians walking, driving or catching the bus to work. There is a sense of megapolis here that I've experienced in london and Rome. And that does not include Karachi because we are so small comparitively. Not sure though if i should add Rome there.

So Day 1: Dec 2 was light.
Trying to think back at it is like thinking back 2 years and not 2 days. There were no garlands of marigold as I expected. But the overall hospitality and reception every where we mention the word 'pakistan' and 'tech delegation from karachi/lahore' is spontaneous and more than welcoming. we only went out for dinner and a walk to a khappa [vegertarian] followed by masala tea at the Taj opposite the gateway to india. Mmm..mmm!

Day 2: Dec 3
2 hours to SEEPZ and 2 hours back. We lost considerable amount of time on the inaugural day of NASSCOM 2004. The inauguaration wasnt until the evening but the visit to 3 local tech software houses and one hurriedly\[badly] put together visit left us out of breath and exhausted. At the inauguration, the mood was celebratory = INdia has arrived, we are a brand and we have a billion dollar club to celebrate it. I heard most of the speeches and laurels, well deserved all of them.

And I wish one day a delegation of media ppl can visit a PASHA annual forum to appreciate all this from Pakistan.

Day 3:
In progress. Rushing to set up interviews, connect with and to people and spread around copies of Spider. More later. It is unbelievably great to be in Mumbai right now.